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Absolutely Revolting
Food

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of food and France by Anne Willan

by Gay Bilson •
December 2013–January 2014, no. 357

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of food and France by Anne Willan

St Martin’s Press, US$27.99 hb, 313 pp

ABR receives a commission on items purchased through this link. All ABR reviews are fully independent.

Not everyone’s father sends his daughter a brace of pheasants while she is studying economics at Cambridge. With a choice of two gas rings on which to cook them, Anne Willan eviscerated and plucked the birds, then used one gas ring to cook a pheasant casserole and the other to make a caramel custard that she ‘steamed over a galvanised tin laundry bucket’. She was, I’d guess, nineteen.

 


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One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of food and France by Anne Willan

St Martin’s Press, US$27.99 hb, 313 pp

ABR receives a commission on items purchased through this link. All ABR reviews are fully independent.

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Comments

Pamela Fawcett
Monday, 09 December 2013 20:04
Having been privileged to cook with Anne and the late and Great Ferdinand Chambrette, if only for a very short time at Chateau du fey, in Burgundy, many years ago! I was touched by a culinary genius or two! I never tire of Anne's books, I actually pester her for more! This book, is something else! I am so grateful to you for allowing us in to your private world! I have a very high respect for you which has gone to new heights. Thanks Anne for sharing this treasure with us all!

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